The resin printer
Resin printing production guide. One printer, about one print a day, and a material that needs care. Plan backwards from Day 18.
- Machine
- One resin printer
- Capacity
- 1 print a day, 2 at most
- Tests
- Days 11–14
- Finals
- Days 15–18
- Files
- Watertight STL, mm
Safety first
- Nitrile gloves, always, whenever you handle the vat, the build plate, fresh prints or anything wet with resin. Latex isn't enough.
- Eye protection when pouring resin, scraping the plate or removing supports.
- Ventilation. Keep the room ventilated and the printer's lid closed while it runs.
- Nothing down the sink. Resin and used solvent are cured in sunlight or UV, then disposed of as the studio instructs.
- Skin contact: wash at once with soap and cold water, and tell the facilitator. Don't use solvent on skin.
The machine
A resin printer cures liquid resin with light, one thin layer at a time, on a plate that rises out of the vat. It's very precise, and it's slow in height, not in number of parts.
Small and precise
Fine detail, but a small build volume. Build volume: confirm on Day 11
Height sets the clock
Print time depends on the tallest part. Several small parts on one plate take no longer than one.
Wash and cure
Every print must be washed and UV-cured before it's safe and finished. Allow half a day.
Booking
Plan for one print a day, two at most. Four resin students fit at one a day; six need two a day.
- Days 11–14: one test print each. Share a plate with other students when parts are small.
- Days 15–18: finals. Day 18 is the last day a final can print; washing and curing must finish before installation on Day 19.
- Submit the sliced file the day before your print, so the facilitator can check it and set the plate.
- Have a fallback. If the final fails, an archival print or a plot of the same seed can stand in.
Preparing the model
- Export an STL in millimetres.
Check the dimensions in the slicer match what you intended.
- Make it watertight.
The mesh must be closed, with no holes, flipped faces or non-manifold edges. Prompt 17 in the prompt library asks Codex to check and report.
- Give every part thickness.
Walls of at least 1–1.5 mm, and no free-standing detail thinner than about 0.5 mm. Lines and surfaces from your system need to be swept or thickened into solids.
- Hollow large solids.
Large solid parts waste resin and can crack. Hollow them, with wall thickness of about 2 mm and at least two drain holes so resin can escape.
- Orient and support in the slicer.
Tilt the part about 30–45° from the plate, so no large flat face prints parallel to it. Put supports where marks won't matter.
The numbers above are common starting points for resin printing; the test print is where you find the right ones for this printer and resin.
Wash, cure, finish
- Remove the plate with gloves on.
Let excess resin drip back into the vat first.
- Wash.
In isopropyl alcohol (or the wash solution the studio provides), following the station's timing. Don't over-soak; it can soften detail.
- Remove supports.
While the part is still slightly soft, with flush cutters and eye protection.
- Dry, then cure.
Under UV until the surface is no longer tacky. Over-curing makes parts brittle.
- Finish.
Sand support marks lightly if they matter. Photograph the result for your test log.
Spec sheet
Day 11, due by 3:30. Save as outputs/production/SPEC.md.
# Production spec · resin object Final dimensions: [w × d × h mm] (fits the build volume: yes / no) Number of parts: [ ] · assembled how: [ ] Minimum wall / detail: [mm] Hollowed: yes / no · drain holes: [ ] Orientation and supports: [notes, screenshot in tests/] Resin and colour: [ ] · why: [the identity's reason] Seed and parameters: [seed, params file] Estimated print time (from the slicer): [ ] Test print: Day [ ] · notes: [ ] Fallback: [ ]
When it goes wrong
| Problem | Likely cause and fix |
|---|---|
| Nothing on the plate | The print didn't stick. Check the plate is clean and level; the first layers may need more exposure. |
| A part broke off mid-print | Too few supports, or a large face parallel to the plate. Re-orient and add supports. |
| Holes or missing faces | The mesh isn't watertight. Repair it before slicing. |
| Cracks after curing | Trapped resin in a solid or badly drained hollow part, or over-curing. Hollow with drain holes, cure less. |
| Detail is lost | Features thinner than the printer can hold. Thicken them in your system, not in the slicer. |